This article appeared in the June 4th Issue of TV Times
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By David Maull
TV Times

Most successful restaurateurs can credit a large amount of their success to reputation.

That's what allowed Pao Lin to get his foot in the door five years ago and served as the impetus for perhaps the finest Chinese restaurant on the Delaware Coast. Lin, owner of China Express in the Seaside Village Shopping Center on Route 1 in Bethany Beach, learned the ropes by working as a teenager in his parents' restaurant. Now, he has applied that knowledge to his own business.

"We have people saying, 'You guys are the only good Chinese restaurant around here'," he said.

Lin's parents owned a Chinese restaurant in Rehoboth Beach for three years before relocating to Dover in 1987. The restaurant was so popular with beach customers, however, that some began making the lengthy drive to Dover simply to dine there. "It's had a pretty good following," Lin said.

One of those loyal customers was a local realtor who placed a call to Lin's parents in April 1994, informing them that restaurant space was available in Seaside Village."He just wanted us to come back," Lin joked.

Lin's parents accepted his offer and decided to open a second location that Pao would operate on his own. "It was kind of a surprise," he said. "I just got out of college and was thinking, 'What am I going to do?'."

Lin rushed to get the new restaurant open by Memorial Day but found the public's initial perception of the business tough to overcome. The restaurant that previously occupied the space also served Chinese food and customers were slow to warm up to China Express.

"It started out slow. The first winter we had to close," Lin said. "It's hard. There's no room for mistakes. There's a lot of loyalty with customers." But the restaurant eventually gained a foothold in the community. It is now open year round serving lunch and dinner to its loyal customer base."We have 20 or 30 people that come in about every week," Lin said.

China Express offers traditional Chinese dishes such as lo mein, egg foo young, fried rice, chow mein and chop suey. It also has a large selection of beef, pork, poultry, vegetable and seafood dishes. Lin also runs eight weekly specials, which often feature other types of oriental food. These dishes are the most fun for Lin, who still spends time in the kitchen.

"I grew up working in the restaurant with my parents," he said. "I've been cooking for at least 10 years."

About 80 percent of Lin's business is takeout but customers can also visit the small dining room.

Lin noted freshness and service are keys to the restaurant's success.China Express uses local produce and shies away from frozen ingredients. Customers can also have their food prepared with the type of seasoning they prefer.

"It's fresher," Lin said. "Everything is cooked to order."