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Mrbreeze
Senior Member
Username: Mrbreeze

Post Number: 555
Registered: 1-2002
Posted on Thursday, July 17, 2003 - 5:51 pm:   

I'am new to trolling with outriggers, how to you set the tension on the release clips? #2,, How much drag,in pounds, do you usually set on your drags for trolling? I'am using Senator type reels.Thankyou,,,,,,,Jim
Rm2
Senior Member
Username: Rm2

Post Number: 655
Registered: 2-2003
Posted on Friday, July 18, 2003 - 6:43 am:   

Jim,
I set my release clips just tight enough to hold the line in place. Kind of a trial and error on that one. Too loose and they will pop out with the boat rocking or on turns, too tight and they won't pop out when a fish hits.
As far as the drag goes, Brad set mine up at 13 lbs. I have tld30's with 40 lb mono. I would think the senators would be the same.
Rob
Matey
Senior Member
Username: Matey

Post Number: 458
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Friday, July 18, 2003 - 7:05 am:   

rule of thumb for drag is 1/3 the rated line strength. i do the same as rob on the release clips. although i wuld think brand and style would affect things a little too. i use roller trollers. barry
Mrbreeze
Senior Member
Username: Mrbreeze

Post Number: 558
Registered: 1-2002
Posted on Friday, July 18, 2003 - 4:20 pm:   

Thanks guys,, this gives me a place to start!.... Jim
Daddys_toy
Senior Member
Username: Daddys_toy

Post Number: 373
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Sunday, July 20, 2003 - 8:55 pm:   

I set mine at 25% but 1/3 sounds like it might be closer. I guess my fear with the star drag reels is if I use too much tension I'll tear the gunwales up. I'd rather start a little light for the first few fish. Good luck on the release clips though!
Chief_mikey
Moderator
Username: Chief_mikey

Post Number: 201
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Sunday, July 20, 2003 - 9:48 pm:   

I set my drags a little lighter, about 8lbs, strictly due being a light line fisherman. Also keeps from having broken lines when I have multiple hook ups with normally only two of us in the boat.

As far as release clips, like Rm2 said it's a guessing game until you have some hook ups. Yesterday mine were a little too tight, 12 to 15 lb blues weren't releasing them until I took a half of a turn out of the set screws. I prefer the clothes pin type, just wrap a loop five times and set it in the jaws. I decided on the new type strictly to make it easier in adjusting the spread.
Gizmo
Senior Member
Username: Gizmo

Post Number: 482
Registered: 8-2001
Posted on Monday, July 21, 2003 - 12:40 pm:   

I always heard 25% of the pound test. Maybe someone who understands physics better than me can explain, but I think it has to do with the lever principle. As your line goes out, the tension on the line increases as you have less line on the spool (ie the lever).

We have our 40 lb gear at 9 lbs, with a full spool. Theoretically, if the fish pulls out half the spool, the drag is at 18 lbs. Near the end, it would be 36 lbs.

There are good arguments for both 1/3 and 1/4. At 1/3, you will not have to loose as much line to get to a higher drag.

Then again, you always have your thumb :-) (as long as the smell of buring flesh doesn't bother you) :-)
Brad
Senior Member
Username: Brad

Post Number: 381
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Tuesday, July 22, 2003 - 1:07 am:   

Gizmo is right. The drag will double at 1/2 spool. Here is the problem with star drag reels. You should set the drag at 25-30% of the line test, and let it alone unless you are getting close to being spooled. At half spool the drag will probably be even greater than double due to heat build up on the smaller drag componets. If running out of line, back off the drag. The hard part is returning to the original setting once (if) you get the fish under control and start gaining line back. A major problem is the initial strike setting. I usually set a strike drag on a lever reel at 6-8#, and fight the fish at 25-30% line test. Any more drag than that on strike will often tear a large hole in the fish, or pull the hook during the strike and initial run. You can set the lever drag reel at 6#, then push the lever to the stop to fight the fish, back off, then return the drag again and again to a known setting. That's why they cost the big bucks. There is an after market item called Star Set, that will give you some ajustment in the star drag and return it to the original setting. I don't know if that item is still available, but I saw a couple on the wall at Ocean Pro a year ago.
One more thing to consider. The more line you have out on a running fish, the more pressure is exerted on the line being pulled through the water. The heavier the line, the more drag. When a fish drags line, even with zero drag pressure, it still wears the fish down. When you chase a fish, chase the line, not the fish. Following the line will reduce the drag on the line, hence reducing pressure on the line and possibly reducing the chance of popping the line due to drag. School tuna and White Marlin are not going to be a problem, but if the man in the blue suit show's up, or one with big eye's, you can very easily be making decisions on whether to reduce the drag, chase the fish, or just stand there with your mouth agape while that little pin that starts the line on your spool makes it's way through your rollers!
Seadawg
Senior Member
Username: Seadawg

Post Number: 693
Registered: 8-2000
Posted on Tuesday, July 22, 2003 - 6:10 am:   

Brad, I talked a couple of different guys this year into spooling up Shimano TLD 25s with 80# Cortland Braid (the same basic line as Power Pro and the other superbraids), which is 30# test diameter. The reels held 600 yards, which verified the diameter claim. And I wound it on the reels tight enough to prevent line bury problems.

I told them to set the drag for 30# (NOT the 80# line rating), so that if they felt they needed a LITTLE more drag, they could use it, and not worry so much about breaking the line.

I told them that the leader could possibly now be the weak link, especially if they go down to lighter flourocarbon pound tests, and to set their drags accordingly.

I warned them that too high of a setting would prematurely fail with the drag systems, since the TLD 25s are not meant to handle 80# class line settings.

Brad, did I give them good advice? They have not tried out the reels yet on a fish, to my knowledge.

Ron
Matey
Senior Member
Username: Matey

Post Number: 475
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Tuesday, July 22, 2003 - 6:29 am:   

Brad, another thing i do on my star drag reels is i set it where i want it and take the star that is on top and paint it black w/ a permanent marker. i then find other settings and mark on the reel wheree the marked star has to go to equal those settings. i also practice the method gizmo was mentioning.....the burn of flesh.
Brad
Senior Member
Username: Brad

Post Number: 384
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Tuesday, July 22, 2003 - 9:56 am:   

Ron, I think the TLD's can take 15-18# drag all day long, but 25-35# is a little much. Those reels are proven titan's for the 30-40# class lines, and if the drags are set up for that in mind, will do well. I think that is a good set-up, but I question your statistic's. My Big Water Braid 80# is the diameter of 18# mono, and my reel capacity is 400 yds. of mono. I spooled 300 yds. of 80# braid, then topped off with 275 yds. of 50# mono, increasing my total yardage to 575 yds! I set my drags for the 50# mono, or leader if lighter. I did the same on a set of smaller reels with similar results. I think your advice was good, but I'm scratching my head on the yardage, or the amount of tension you were actually able to apply to the line when you spooled the braid. It has to be done with a machine to get the kind of tension to spool it tight, and the machine has to be one designed to spool big game reels. Don't worry, a big Bluefin will let you know.
Barry, I use to do the same thing, but I use to use shrink tubing to mark the stardrags. The trouble is, it's still a shot in the dark with a star drag reel, and not very precise. The drags on a stardrag just don't have the surface area, and the star adjuster begins to tighten very quickly when you make the adjustments. Once the springs bottom out, you're just crushing the system, and the drag becomes inconsistent. There are a whole host of problems with the star drag systems, and with lever drag reels becoming more competitive in price, I doubt that anyone will develop a better system. That's a shame, because truthfully, lever drags are not the answer to every fishing situation.
Seadawg
Senior Member
Username: Seadawg

Post Number: 700
Registered: 8-2000
Posted on Wednesday, July 23, 2003 - 12:42 pm:   

Brad, I had purchased 600 yard spools of the Cortland line, and I have a homemade spool tensioner/motor setup in my basement that will put all the tension I dare put on it. I basically just kept the line level on the reel spool while I loaded the reels.

600 yards coincidentally filled up the Shimano's to "the line". I can't remember the reel specs for line capacity, but that is how it turned out on these reels. I loaded 4 reels (2 each for 2 different friends), and they all came out the same way.

As they try them, I'll let you know how they work out.

Ron